Sealed Pool Tips: The in's and out's

Go down

Sealed Pool Tips: The in's and out's Empty Sealed Pool Tips: The in's and out's

Post  Rusch on Sat Jul 09, 2011 9:29 pm

So I thought I would just write a short article about how to construct limited decks (sealed in particular), I've played enough limited and consider it to be both my favorite and best format. Usually when I go around looking at people's decks, they ask for my opinions on certain cards and I am always willing to help. But there are some pretty basic skills to pick up if you want to be a competitive limited player that should put a solid base to how you should build your deck.

Keep in mind, there is luck involved in limited, you could have bombs in the pool that you can't play. Sometimes players walk into it, they force themselves to play a specific color for a bomb and run mediocre cards or they try to splash an insanely un-splashable win condition. But let's go through how you should start going through your cards.

Time is usually not an issue, but an important part about your deck is you have no idea what hands you can get from it, so I try to make the best deck I can, and test my hands to see if the results from constructions are what i can learn an expect.

Opening your packs:
When you start cracking your cards, forget about reading them, you can see all of what they do later, even if you are aware of the cards in the set.
-Start sorting your cards by color, as well as gold cards, artifacts and lands.
After sorting all of the packs, go through each individually, measure whether the card is 'playable' or 'not-playable.' Measuring a cards strength can sometimes be tough, but generally cards that are conditional such as 'if you have less life...' etc, those are probably not playable. Limited formats give you 0 information about your opponents deck so cards like that are very hard to accurately value, turning a conditional card, into an even more conditional card.

Take all your non-playables, and put them to the side, you should be able to see results as far as a color's depth. Meaning how many of the cards in that color are playable. If you have a bomb with a deep color, generally you're going to play it.

Deepest Color & Deck Construction:
Deepest color means the color with the most amount of the best cards. Your deepest color is almost always your primary color, giving you the best creatures or spells and the best chance of winning with your card pool.
With your deepest color ready to be sleeved, you are going to probably (I have been mono-colored in sealed one time) going to partner it with another color. The first thing you want to do is see what your second deepest colors do and weigh in its worth compared to cards in your deepest color. What does your deck need so far? Creatures, Evasion, Removal, a Bomb? You need to see what you can pair together to make your DECK complete. Every deck needs: synergy, a clear way to win, and a way to stop your opponent from winning. As long as you construct a deck with these in mind you will have the most complete deck in your pool.

Splashing a card sometimes come easy as you may have effects to add one mana of any color, or a way to search for land, but other times cards are way too powerful and splashable not to play. Let's look at The Lastest M12 Core Set for an example:
-Fireball: At one red, it is both a win condition and a giant spot removal card. The only drawback to playing this in a say... UW deck, where you probably wont find another mana source besides drawing it. The card wins a game by itself, and will almost always do it late game, enough time to just draw the land.
-Pacifism: At one white it removes the best creature from attacking, or give your just the right amount to swing in to seal in a win.
The thing you notice is that these cards are splashable because they only have a cost of one in that color. And playing the best common in a color is mostly better than playing that mediocre creature in your deepest color. The best way to add lands is adding all the ways you can produce the color in your deck, and have +1 of the number of cards in that color you are splashing. For example if you have 2 cards you're splashing without anyway to produce them outside of lands, add two lands of that color, and add one additional land, (x+1)=#of sources played in deck.

Limited mana curve understanding is sometimes hard to understand, judging by the aggressiveness of your deck. But the best mid-range (most limited decks fall into this category) is the bell-shape. A one drop some 2, some 3, lots of 4s, some 5s a couple 6 drops and maybe a high mana bomb. If you find yourself with many many 3 drops, your deck gets clunky, waiting till turn 6 till you can potentially play 2 at a time, and probably creatures without a high impact.

Anyways that's some of the fundamentals of limited deck construction, hope you find it helpful!

Posts : 34
Join date : 2011-04-17
Age : 29
Location : Tracy, CA

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Sealed Pool Tips: The in's and out's Empty Re: Sealed Pool Tips: The in's and out's

Post  Foster on Tue Jul 12, 2011 1:23 am

Well put. I would add a point or two into deck construction against using too many cards or colors.

You generally do not want to have larger than a 40 card deck. This ensures that you will draw your best cards more often, and thus, have a better chance to win.

Depending on the format you want to have around 17 of those 40 cards be lands. You need lands to play your spells and 17/40 is a good percentage that ensures you will usually draw the land you need without being flooded. This can change based on the format. For instance, in Zendikar you may have wanted to play with 18, 19 or even 20 land to activate your landfall creatures/spells.

As for colors, you generally want to play with no more than two colors, or two colors and a small splash for a 3rd. The more colors you have, the tougher time you may have getting all the mana you need to cast the cards you have when you have them. Or you may have to lower the power of your deck to include the filtering you need to get all the colors you are running. This also changes depending on the format. In the Shards of Alara format, there was enough mana fixing and powerful cards that made tri-color decks a commonplace occurrence. However in normal formats like the upcoming M12, two color decks will most likely be the norm.

Posts : 4
Join date : 2011-05-03

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Sealed Pool Tips: The in's and out's Empty Re: Sealed Pool Tips: The in's and out's

Post  Andy on Wed Jul 13, 2011 9:35 pm

Thank you two for the post. The last limited i was stuck with really crappy pulls. I stuck with the basics on deck construction and asked Rusch for advice. With that I was able to place and win some packs. I only lost to decks that had better deck construction and pulls. So even with bad luck on my side Rusch's basics are good way to give you a fighting chance. Cool

Posts : 102
Join date : 2011-03-18
Age : 37
Location : Tracy

View user profile

Back to top Go down

Sealed Pool Tips: The in's and out's Empty Re: Sealed Pool Tips: The in's and out's

Post  Sponsored content

Sponsored content

Back to top Go down

Back to top

Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum